Rütli Wear ou le streetwear made in Neukölln
jeudi 20 novembre 2008
Neukölln, Shopping
La célèbre histoire de Rütli Schule
L’école Rütli a gagné sa réputation un jour de 2006, lorsqu’une enseignante de l’école a décidé d’écrire une lettre ouverte au Sénat de Berlin pour se plaindre de la difficulté d’enseigner dans cette école. Cette lettre a d’abord lancé le débat sur le système éducatif allemand, au niveau du secondaire. Il existe trois sortes de collèges-lycées en Allemagne: les Gymnasium, où sont rassemblés les meilleurs élèves, destinés à passer le bac et à poursuivre de longues études, les Realschulen, où sont regroupés les élèves à qui l’on apprend un métier, et enfin les Hauptschulen, où sont parqués tous les autres, en situation d’échec scolaire et souvent de détresse sociale. La Rütli Schule est une Hauptschule…
Mais plus qu’une polémique sur le système éducatif allemand, cette lettre a mis le feu aux poudres sur un sujet aussi sensible en Allemagne qu’en France: l’immigration et “l’intégration”. Il faut savoir que Neukölln est le quartier Multi Kulti par excellence, et qu’à la Rütli Schule, 83% des élèves sont “issus de l’immigration”. Ce que dénonçait l’enseignante dans sa lettre, c’était l’impossibilité d’enseigner quoi que ce soit à des élèves dans un climet de terreur, de violence, de vandalisme et de racisme. En quelque jour, l’histoire a fait le tour des rédactions allemandes, qui y ont vu un parfait marronier et se sont précipités à la Rütli Schule.
“Ce que voulaient dire cette enseignante, c’est que ces élèves n’avaient aucun avenir. Et les médias ont débarqué à l’école en se disant “attention, ce sont de vrais terroristes”… Tous les journaux allemands, et même des médias européens sont venus, ont filmé, pris des photos… Et ils ont même payé des élèves pour qu’ils fassent des choses bizarres. Tiens, je te donnes des cigarettes et tu balances cette poubelle…”, nous raconte Matthias, l’un des fondateurs de Rütli Wear. Certains journalistes auraient même directement fourni les cailloux que les élèves étaient censés jeter moyennant rémunération. Pendant plusieurs semaines, la Rütli Schule a occupé le devant de la scène, décrite partout comme “Gewaltschule” ou “Terrorschule” (l’école de la violence et de la terreur). Puis les choses se sont calmé. Les médias ont commencé à prendre du recul et à analyser ce monstre médiatique qu’ils avaient crée. Et les autorités de Neukölln ont pris les choses en mains.
“Rütli était devenue l’école la plus célèbre d’Allemagne, tout le monde connaissait ce nom. Les politiques devaient agir parce que ce n’était pas bon pour eux que Neukölln apparaisse dans les médias comme un ghetto. Peu à peu, plein de projets comme le nôtre ont commencé à émerger. Tout le monde voulait faire quelque chose avec cette école. Finalement, elle a eu de la chance dans son malheur…”
Motifs designés par les élèves pour la collection N.1 de Rütli Wear
La création de Rütli Wear
Le projet est né pendant ces événements. Les trois fondateurs, tout juste sortis de leurs études de sociologie, ont eu cette idée dans un bar en buvant des bières, comme c’est souvent le cas: “On s’est dit qu’il n’était pas normal que les élèves se voient coller cette image et qu’ils endossent la responsabilité de tout ce qui ne va pas dans le système éducatif allemand. On voulait faire quelque chose. On a d’abord décidé d’imprimer des t-shirts avec le nom de Rütli, juste pour provoquer un peu. Le jour du 1er Mai, la manifestation qui a lieu tous les ans s’est dirigé tout droit vers l’école. Et là, on a commencé à distribuer nos t-shirst dans la foule. Vu la réaction des gens, on s’est dit que ça pourrait être intéressant de faire quelque chose avec ça. Tout le monde venait nous voir, nous poser des questions, nous dire que c’était cool… On a décidé d’aller parler au directeur de l’école, pour lui expliquer qu’on avait un projet, que les élèves pourraient créer leur propre design pour dire “c’est ça notre vie, pas ce qu’on montre dans les médias”. Au début, il était plutôt réticent. Beaucoup de gens venaient le voir pour lui proposer des projets en rapport avec l’école, parce que Rütli était médiatique et que ça pouvait rapporter de l’argent… Le directeur était distant avec tous ces projets. On est revenu plusieurs fois, on a continué à lui parler de notre projet, je crois qu’on était assez agaçants en fait… Et puis il a finit par dire oui. Il nous a donné trois classes pour essayer. Chaque classe vient une journée par semaine à l’atelier.”
Motifs designés par les élèves pour la collection N.2
Cet atelier, situé dans la Pflügerstrasse, ils l’ont ouvert avec un couple de Polonais et un Français. Ils y impriment leurs vêtements, ont crée un petit bar ouvert aux habitants du quartier et peuvent le louer pour une journée ou plus pour des projets d’impression. Depuis deux ans et demi, l’aventure Rütli Wear continue avec les élèves de l’école, âgés de 15 à 18 ans. Mais qui fait quoi exactement? Et comment se passent les relations avec ces ados?
“Les élèvent créent le design et les motifs. On est trois à travailler principalement sur le projet. L’un d’entre nous est designer, l’autre est éducatrice. Ils s’occupent des cours avec les élèves et développent différentes techniques créatives, comme leur donner deux minutes pour peindre un truc qui leur évoque Neukölln, ou bien les faire prendre des photos dans le quartier et les faire travailler à partir de ça. Et puis on leur apprend les techniques d’impression mais pour l’instant, ils ne le font pas eux-mêmes. Pour eux, c’est une bonne opportunité. Au début ils se demandaient ce qu’on leur voulait… Puis ils sont venus plusieurs fois, ils ont compris qu’ils pouvaient apprendre des choses et que c’était plus drôle que l’école! Des journaux sont venus les interviewer plusieurs fois, ils étaient super fiers. En général, on essaie de se mettre un peu en retrait et de les laisser sur le devant de la scène. Ils sont super fiers de leurs t-shirts. Et maintenant, ils sont fiers de leur école.”
Nous nous sommes demandés comment les fondateurs du projet voyaient l’évolution actuelle du Reuterkiez, où est basé leur atelier. Quand ils ont commencé il y a deux ans et demi, il était bien loin du quartier branché qu’il est aujourd’hui, avec ses multiples bars et galeries d’art.
“Le Reuterkiez est un quartier spécial. Jusqu’ici, ce qui s’y passe est vraiment intéressant. Mais j’espère que ça n’ira pas trop loin dans la gentrification, comme Prenzlauer Berg. Il y a deux ans, il n’y avait qu’un ou deux bars. Aujourd’hui il y en a 40, ça se développe très vite! La situation actuelle est parfaite, j’espère que ça n’ira pas trop loin…”
Et l’avenir de Rütli Wear?
“L’idée maintenant, c’est de travailler avec d’autres écoles et institutions sociales et culturelles. On a déjà commencé avec le Kindergarten de la Reuterplatz. On veut que les gens développent leur propre design, leur propre ligne de vêtements, et nous, on s’occupe de les vendre et de faire de la pub…”
Motifs de la collection Kioskids
Si leurs ventes ont un peu baissé une fois que la tempête médiatique autour de l’école s’est calmée, ils ont remarqué que chaque fois que quelque chose se passe dans l’actualité, en rapport avec la délinquence juvénile, les ventes de Rütli Wear augmentent. Pour être prêt à acheter votre sweat Rütli à la prochaine échauffourée, rendez-vous sur leur shop online ou dans l’un de ces magasins:
* Croissanterie, Pannierstrasse 56
* SDW-Neukölln, l’atelier de Rütli Wear, Pflügerstrasse 11
* Hainweh, Gärtnerstrasse 17
* Ausberlin, Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 17
Tags: Berlin, Designers, Neukölln, Rütli Schule, Rütli Wear, Rencontres, Street Wear
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